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Archived News Release--Caution:
information may be out of date.
For more information call: 202 219-7316
Labor Secretary Robert B. Reich said today's release of a comprehensive
study of child labor in the international garment industry proves that active
monitoring of an industry can produce change.
The report, "The Apparel Industry and Codes of Conduct: A
Solution to the International Child Labor Problem?" found child labor was down
significantly in the Central American countries studied and that many
manufacturers for American industry have developed codes of conduct which ban
child labor. The study also shows that the codes are only as effective as the
monitoring policies the companies use to enforce them.
"Private industry now recognizes that it can take steps to make sure
boys and girls are not robbed of their childhood. But codes are not a panacea.
No code of conduct is worth the paper it's printed on without strict
enforcement of its requirements," said Reich.
The survey, conducted for a report issued today by the U.S. Labor
Department's Bureau of International Labor Affairs, reviewed the extent to
which U.S. apparel importers have established and enforced codes of conduct or
other guidelines prohibiting the use of child labor in making garments. The
report is the third in a series on international child labor.
In addition to a questionnaire sent to 48 importers, department
officials visited 70 apparel plants in the Dominican Republic, El Salvador,
Guatemala, Honduras, India and the Philippines that make clothing for U.S.
firms. They interviewed labor ministry officials, manufacturers, plant
managers, buyers, trade associations, unions, workers, community activists,
human rights groups, organizations concerned with children's issues and other
non-government organizations.
The questionnaire was sent to U.S. retailers and apparel manufacturers
including Dayton Hudson Corp., Dillard Department Stores, The Dress Barn, Inc.,
Fruit of the Loom, Federated Department Stores, The Gap, JC Penney, K-Mart,
Land's End, Levi Strauss, Liz Claiborne, Nike, Nordstrom, Phillips Van-Heusen
and Price-Costco. These firms are part of an industry that imports nearly $35
billion a year. The U.S. is the world's largest garment importer.
Thirty six of the 45 companies that responded to the questionnaire said
they have adopted policies that specifically prohibit children from producing
the goods they import. But while most importers surveyed had developed and
distributed codes of conduct to their suppliers, only 22 of the 70 plant
managers said they communicated the codes to their workers. Only 21 had posted
the codes in work areas. Nor had many managers or supervisors been trained in
the new codes, and while two-thirds of the managers said they were aware of the
codes, less than half had a copy they could produce.
Codes must be thoroughly enforced through monitoring if they are to
have credibility. Even though most importers now have codes banning child
workers, many still do not make site visits or talk with plant workers to be
sure the codes have been honored. The survey showed that foreign suppliers that
are owned by or contract directly with a U.S. corporation seem subject to the
most frequent and thorough monitoring. Meanwhile, it appears that Indian and
Filipino children continue to sew, trim, embroider and pleat for subcontractors
and in their homes, where there is no monitoring at all.
Because of the international attention on child labor, some plants are
now refusing to hire teens who are legally allowed to work according to their
countries' laws. The main motivation for code compliance appears to be the fear
of losing access to the U.S. market. A potential loss of revenue outweighs any
potential gain to be made by hiring low-cost child workers.
The report makes five recommendations:
- that all elements in the apparel industry -- manufacturers,
retailers, buying agents and merchandisers, consider adopting codes of conduct
banning child labor and sweatshop conditions;
- that garment importers discuss adopting more standardized codes;
- that U.S. importers either monitor subcontractors more closely or
limit the use of subcontractors;
- that more importers take an active role in monitoring;
- that workers as well as non-government organizations and foreign
governments be informed about the codes.
The report is available through the U.S. Labor Department at 208-4843
or by mailing a request to Room S1308, Child Labor Office, Bureau of
International Labor Affairs, U.S. Labor Department, 200 Constitution Ave. N.W.,
Washington, D.C. 20210.
Archived News Release--Caution:
information may be out of date.
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