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December 2, 2008    DOL Home > News Release Archives > OSEC/OPA 1996   

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Archived News Release--Caution: information may be out of date.

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF LABOR

Office of Public Affairs

OPA Press Release: Industry Monitoring Credited For Improved Garment Industry Compliance With Minimum Wage and Overtime Laws [05/09/1996]

For more information call: 202-219-8211

Labor Secretary Robert B Reich said today a newly completed survey of California garment companies is "powerful proof" that initiatives designed to encourage the industry to better police itself are working. The survey found that monitoring programs in the garment business have significantly reduced minimum wage and overtime violations.

However, the recently completed survey also indicates that labor law violations are a continuing problem in the industry and are being ignored by far too many manufacturers, contractors and retailers.

"This survey clearly indicates that monitoring for labor law compliance can have a substantial impact on working conditions," Reich said. "Unfortunately, the survey also reminds us just how very far America has to go to wipe out sweatshops in this century. The government cannot do it alone. We need the support of the industry and the public."

The most significant findings in the survey of 76 randomly selected California sewing firms are two-fold -- almost half of all sewing shops are being monitored for compliance by the manufacturer, and monitored sewing shops were found to have less than half the violations found in other shops.

Investigators found that 48 percent of sewing contractors are monitored by manufacturers, either according to a direct agreement between the manufacturer and the Labor Department's Wage and Hour Division or by manufacturers who have voluntarily initiated a monitoring program of their own.

"Getting garment manufacturers to share responsibility for the fair treatment of workers by the sewing shops with whom they contract has been the cornerstone of our garment initiative," said Maria Echaveste, administrator of the Wage and Hour Division. "The survey results will help convince manufacturers that monitoring is an effective way to reduce their potential liability for goods produced in their name in violation of the wage and hour laws."

During the past two years, the Wage and Hour Division has increased from four to 44 the number of manufacturers who have signed formal agreements with the agency to monitor sewing contractors for compliance. Under the terms of the Augmented Compliance Program Agreement, manufacturers agree to conduct periodic audits of time and payroll records of their sewing contractors.

The recent survey indicates a dramatic improvement in the compliance of garment shops being monitored. The average total number of violations for a monitored sewing shop was 2.9, compared to 4.9. Only 27 percent (vs. 64 percent) were cited for minimum wage violations. Roughly half as many monitored shops were cited for overtime violations and backwages (39 percent cited vs. 75 percent).

The survey, formally released on Wednesday in Los Angeles, shows compliance has improved in almost every area measured when compared to a similar survey conducted in 1994.

Over the two-year time span, the percentage of firms violating minimum wage requirements dropped 18 percent, from 61 to 43 percent. Shops cited for overtime law violations dropped from 78 percent to 55 percent. No shops were cited for child labor violations, compared to 4 percent in the 1994 survey.

The 1996 survey also showed firms on average owed far less in back wages and penalties as a result of violations. Back wages owed workers who were paid less than the minimum wage totaled $1,592, compared to $3,866 in 1994. Unpaid overtime owed workers was $1,643 -- down from $3,418 two years ago. Employers were fined $1,128 for failure to maintain workers' compensation insurance, compared to $4,407 in the previous survey.

The 1996 survey was based on the results of investigations of 76 apparel sewing contractors in the Los Angeles Basin counties of Los Angeles, Orange, Ventura, San Bernardino and Riverside. Random samples were pulled from California Employment Development Department records of 4849 apparel firms. A random selection program provided the names of 110 firms, of which 34 were dropped as unsuitable or no longer in business.

Just last week, the department released its first-ever national garment enforcement report. The report revealed that almost half of garment contractors investigated across the country were in violation of minimum wage or overtime laws.

The enforcement report was another development in the department's three-prong strategy that includes recognizing companies working to stem labor abuses, aggressively enforcing the nation's laws against worker abuse and educating the public about continued violations throughout the industry. Over the last year, Reich has named to a Trendsetters list, almost three dozen national manufacturers and retailers who are aiding efforts to eradicate sweatshops.


Archived News Release--Caution: information may be out of date.




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