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December 2, 2008    DOL Home > News Release Archives > OSEC/OPA 1996   

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Archived News Release--Caution: information may be out of date.

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF LABOR

Office of Public Affairs

OPA Press Release: Labor Secretary Releases Nationwide Garment Report Revealing Sweatshops Persist In U.S. Apparel Industry [05/03/1996]

For more information call: 202-219-8211

Labor Secretary Robert B. Reich today released the first-ever national report on garment worker abuse that shows, in a six-month snapshot, that almost half the nation's garment contractors investigated in this fiscal year were found to be violating federal minimum wage or overtime laws.

Reich said the scope and rate of violation demonstrates far too many garment assembly firms are routinely violating the nation's labor laws.

"At a time when the country is crying for an increase in the minimum wage, we are witnessing the erosion of minimum wage rights for the nation's garment workers," Reich said. "This report demonstrates that far too few sewing shops are paying even the basic minimum wage for a hard hour's work, and far too many manufacturers are doing business with those firms."

The compliance report was compiled at the request of the nation's retailers who met with the Secretary last year as part of his ongoing effort to solicit their help in improving the industry labor law compliance track record. Retail executives told Reich they needed more information about manufacturers and contractors violating labor laws in order to assist in efforts to improve compliance.

The 30-page report was provided to the National Retail Federation, the national trade association which represents the country's largest clothing retailers. It is also being made available on the Department's "No Sweat" Internet site, www.dol.gov.

"Many manufacturers on this list are now working with us to improve compliance in the industry," Reich said. "They are identified with asterisks on this list. But these asterisks indicate more than a footnote. They indicate these manufacturers are working with us to stem the history of abuse in this industry."

The report covers back wages paid and fines assessed in the first half of fiscal year 1996, the period from Oct. 1, 1995 to March 31, 1996. During this period, the department's Wage and Hour Division conducted 472 garment investigations that revealed 222 violations, a violation rate nationally of about 47 percent. More than $1.3 million in back wages was recovered for about 3,600 garment workers.

"I want to invite the industry to take note of this list today and in the future," Reich said. "Contractors who repeatedly violate the law are building a record that ought to set off warning bells in the manufacturing and retail community."

The department plans to release this information quarterly. By regularly reporting on those contractors it finds in violation, and the manufacturers with whom they have done business, the department will enable retailers, manufacturers and consumers to identify firms that repeatedly violate minimum wage and overtime laws. The report identifies which manufacturers among those notified of contractor violations have agreed to monitor contractors for future violations.

Regular reports will also help retailers and consumers identify firms which make efforts to comply with the law. For example, while contractors cited for first-time violations will be included in the report, those who come into compliance when notified by Wage and Hour and remain in compliance will not appear in subsequent reports.

In addition to back-wage assessments, the report reveals sweatshops continue to plague the nation's largest garment manufacturing centers in New York, California and Texas. Investigations of contractors and manufacturers in New York and California alone resulted in more than 3,000 workers recovering almost $1 million in lost wages.

New York led the nation both in rate of violations and in total back wages collected with 60 percent and $593,327 respectively. California logged a violation rate of 51 percent and investigators recovered $447,532 in lost wages for more 1,353 workers. Dallas' violation rate of 71 percent was the highest in the nation.

The largest single violation occurred in Santa Ana, Calif. Garment manufacturer Fantasy paid more than $78,000 in back wages and fines.

Federal law allows recovery of back wages owed to workers for a maximum of 3 years. All manufacturers who were determined to have done business with the contractor during the period of investigation were contacted by investigators.

Reich said the government shutdowns and the report's complexity delayed its release.

"This information is critical to retailers, manufacturers and the public," Reich said. "Everyone should be interested in helping eradicate sweatshops."

The Labor Department, under Reich's leadership, stepped up garment enforcement in 1993. The Wage and Hour division adopted an aggressive strategy intended to encourage manufacturers and retailers to assist enforcement efforts.

The report indicates this strategy is paying dividends. According to enforcement figures, back wages collected and the number of employees receiving those wages has substantially increased per 1,000 enforcement hours. Last year, investigators recovered $85,843 in back wages for 280 employees for every 1,000 investigative hours invested. Those figures have soared this year despite budget constraints and shutdowns to $128,793 and 308 employees.

In the last three years, the department has recovered more than $7.3 million in wages for some 25,000 garment workers.


Archived News Release--Caution: information may be out of date.




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